Designs for Life
Lauded for his architectural knits, which have gained him a global customer base, designer Colin Burke now has his sights set on a head-to-toe signature look, explains Marie Kelly.
There are certain luxury items that never go out of style: a Swiss watch, a piece of Louis Vuitton luggage, a classic Chanel flap bag. These are the kind of items that shoppers will either splash out on or slavishly save for depending on their circumstances because they have an appeal that crosses any socio-economic divide. We covet them not just because they look good and have status but because they represent a piece of history and the finest craftsmanship and design.
I suspect it won’t be long before a Colin Burke sculptural knit is added to this prestigious list. Stocked exclusively in upmarket Dublin boutique Havana and Adare Manor in Limerick, the unique crochet puff sleeves of his architectural sweaters and cardigans are becoming as much of a status symbol as a set of Simone Rocha pearls. Worn by A-list actors including Nicola Coughlan, Kelly Rutherford and Roma Downey, Burke sells globally via his website to countries as diverse as Toronto, Monaco, Brazil, Paris, Switzerland and the States and says his customer base is now split equally between Irish and international clients.
His knitwear represents the very best in contemporary Irish design. He’s taken the traditional Aran knit and given it a modern context and a fresh relevance in women’s wardrobes. Dramatic sleeves are balanced with an uncomplicated body which is designed in one size, making the garments easy to wear, and straightforward to buy online. Custom sizing is also available.
Burke has seen phenomenal growth over the past 18 months, he tells me, despite business forecaster Forbes reporting in June that the global luxury market is stalling. For Burke, it doesn’t seem so. Repeat business, in particular, is brisk, he reveals, and for this reason, he wanted to introduce a point of newness to his modest collection for those regular patrons who return each year for another piece of exceptional design. He was also interested in flexing his design muscles.
“I wanted to push my signature silhouette further,” explains 30-year-old Burke, who in the early days of his brand spent months sampling yarns and playing with stitches to create the distinctive sleeve silhouette he’s become famous for. This time round, he focused on engineering that same volume and structure into a hood using an attractive honeycomb stitch. “The hood elevates it beyond a sweater to a piece of outerwear,” says Burke. Aran wool has a waterproof quality and coupled with a generous silhouette, the Cass hoodie is ideal for layering over finer knits. Burke has also introduced three new colourways this season: Berry, Olive and Charcoal.
Burke has taken the traditional Aran knit and given it a modern context and a fresh relevance in women’s wardrobes.
To date, the Cass hoodie has been bought entirely by regular clients, Burke says, but given that it perfectly captures the current athleisure-fication of luxury fashion, it’s bound to attract a new audience for the designer. The Sal sleeveless sweater is also new to his repertoire and is defined by its structured shoulder silhouette that has a pitch-perfect proportionality, which both women and men will find endlessly flattering.
Burke’s garments are conversation pieces, modern heirlooms that are proving particularly popular as 50th birthday presents and milestone anniversary gifts, he reveals. “Lots of husbands buy sweaters for their wives. They’ve told me how their partners have had a particular knit in mind for several months. They consider it an investment piece that’s worth waiting for,” he says. “It’s really wonderful that they hold one of my designs in their heads for that length of time,” he adds modestly.
While Forbes believes that many luxury brands need to rethink their value proposition by prioritising trust and connection with consumers, this is clearly something Burke excels at. Customers can email him directly and the durability of his garments goes unquestioned; since graduating in 2017, Burke has never had a single complaint about a piece of knitwear. A Colin Burke sweater will last as long as any precious designer handbag and the price tag reflects this. The Maureen sweater, for instance, retails at €1,450. The cost is indicative not just of the number of hours involved in knitting the garment – typically ten days – but the time it takes Burke to devise and test out each design – anything between two and three months.
He’s a fastidious and uncompromising designer with a truly unique offering. But as successful as his knitwear is, it’s by no means the limit of his ambition. “I want to deliver a complete Colin Burke look for my customers next year,” he explains. “I’ve put so much focus into the top half of the body. Now I’m concentrating on designing skirts and trousers that will have the same properties as the knitwear because what drives me is the architecture and structural form of clothes.”
It’s not surprising that the Galway native almost chose architecture as a career. It was the first choice on his CEO form, but he made the sudden decision to turn it down for a place on the prestigious fashion degree course at NCAD before reapplying as a mature student and passing it up a second time. He has no regrets, he says.
Burke believes one of his brand’s strengths is its exclusivity so he has no plans to sell through any more stores, preferring to focus on a direct-to-consumer business model. He’s currently experimenting with luxurious European fabrics such as Italian wool, organza and silk for his structured separates. He’s also made his signature Maureen sweater and Corrib cardigan available to order in Italian wool; he doesn’t feel confined to working solely with Irish materials. “I’m an Irish brand but with a global customer base,” he explains. “Some international customers prefer the softness of Italian wool to the stiffness of Aran yarn,” he adds.
Burke says his knitwear doesn’t sell seasonally but all year round, which is a strong testament to its desirability. His experimentation with different fabrics will only increase its widespread appeal. “My story is evolving all the time and so is my product,” he explains. “As long as I stay true to my brand’s point of difference, customers will respond,” he adds.
This article originally appeared in the Sunday Business Post, November 2024